We have had two lazy days, yesterday (Friday the 19th) because of significant rain and cold weather partnered with packing for our exit from Liege and then today (Saturday the 20th), a drive from Liege, to Brussels, drop our luggage at our one night only hotel, return the rental car to Budget and then mill about around Gare de Midi/Zuid until we can check in at 4:00. All that relaxation time has allowed me to catch up on the blog a little, still behind though, trying to fit it all in.
As you may have guessed, I’ve been trying to get as many bicycle rides in during this trip as I can coordinate. We are in Europe a few days short of a month. We have planned to reserve 6 days to be physically present and watch Spring Classic and Semi-Classic bike races. You might ask, why so many? First response is that they are exciting, and the spring classics are, in my opinion, the most exciting, challenging, and interesting Pro Bike races all year, every year. Secondarily, it gives us a chance to visit a variety of smaller towns that are just as and, in some ways, more appealing than the larger cities. The smaller cities also allow me to ride in a more relaxed, less hectic, rural setting versus trying to navigate very busy and congested city streets.
If you have been reading along, you know I got some short rides in while in Brussels. Just a way to get from lodging to rail stations, and then load the bike on the trains to get to the more rural towns. Today is my chance to try and get a ride in through the busy parts of Liege. I did some research with my friendly Ride with GPS app and realized even though we are staying in a place along the shores of a major river, the Muse, bike specific trails are not that common. I see them on maps, but they are scattered and not always connected one to the next. With the help of Ride w/ GPS, I created a route that might be a few hours long, mostly following the river but crossing the river and/or channels numerous times to stay on bike friendly routes. This should be interesting. All in all, the ride was successful, meaning I made it out and back without getting too lost and avoiding most of the sketchiest busy sections, muddy areas and yes, sections that are populated with maybe not homeless but some less fortunate. Did I see some scenic sections of Liege, well maybe but I was more concerned about finding my way around and not getting run over.
Back to the apartment, shower and after a short discussion we decide to walk a few kilometers across the river to tour the Cathedral of St Paul. Let’s see, we use Google maps and a paper map, find an approx. direction, find a cathedral/church but not St Paul’s and not open to viewing, at least not until maybe later in the day. Amazing from the outside though. We check Google and the map and find the error of our ways and after 6-8 blocks we do find St Paul’s Cathedral and it is open. Can you say history? The building is a massive, magnificent old structure, how did they build places like this in the 10th century or so. (Dates related to the structure are approx. plus there were a few rebuilds over its life span.)
Not only is the structure spectacular but within the walls are the “Treasures of Liege” a collection of artifacts, artwork, metal work (silver and gold) most related in some way or another to religion of the past The church is actively operating now. I know I am barely glossing over the history of this place. I am not a religious person per se, but this place was inspiring in several ways to me. I can’t help but think about how much work in the distant past was dedicated to deeds associated with religion. Paintings, churches/structures, all the religious artifacts, the hierarchy of the church and those who supported it plus all the work of those who did all the craftmanship and artwork. Makes me ask a lot of questions.
With all that impressive art viewing and walking we worked up quite an appetite and being in the upscale dining and shopping area, we are off in search of food and beverages. We found an interesting and busy, (as they all were on this nice day) sidewalk cafe, stopped and ordered some great local cuisine and a Belgian beer of course. For dessert, a stop at one of the wonderful bakeries for treats to go, yum!
Full day almost done; we found our walking landmarks (A fast food burger place and a fuel station of all things) leading the way back. We pass the laundry stop and knowing we have a plie to do, I attempt to understand the process of buying tokens and getting set up. The credit card machine dispensing tokens of course dislikes 3 different USA cc’s so laundry will need to wait for another day.
Another travel and race day tomorrow. A 45-minute drive to the wonderful town, Valkenburg where we plan to watch the Amstel Gold Race which finishes just after the racers sprint up and over the Cauberg a famous steep paved climb on the way out of the town. We hope to be at the finish line with all our Belgian friends and neighbors, eating frites with mayo and drinking Amstel Gold beers and watching the full race on the big screen TV’s.